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CNC Carbide 3D Shapeoko Touch Probe For 1/2 The Price

9/25/2019

1 Comment

 
The Touch Probe allows you to quickly identify job zero (X, Y, and Z) by running the probing feature found in Carbide Motion.   The touch probe from Carbide 3D is pretty expensive.  I've found an alternate for 1/2 the price on Amazon.  It works just as well.  The one difference is that it does not have a green and red light indication (but this is not necessary for it to function).
This alternative CNC Touch Probe can be used with Shapeoko 3 that use Carbide Motion. Can also be used on other CNC routers on control software that support a probe with the standard .100 (2.54mm) connector spacing.  The probe supports 4 different types of probing XYZ (otherwise known as corner probing), X (to find the left edge of your material), Y (to find the front edge of your material), and Z (to find the top of your material. Can be used on Nomad 883 Pro as well, but this will require removing or rewiring the tool height sensor. Since that connection is also plugged into the 2 pin PROB connector.  
The kit includes aluminum probe plate a 60” cord to connect to the control board and 10 inch wire alligator clips.  
Features:
  • Automatic measurements to deliver precision
  • Automatic calculation and correction of the tool offset
  • No errors due to manual tool setting using gauge blocks
  • No typing errors and corresponding subsequent damage
  • Time saving, reliable, tactile measurements
I've created a video to help show you how to set it up and use it.  The video is with the official touch probe, but will be identical with this touch probe.

​                                                BUY IT USING THE BUTTON BELOW:
Buy The Touch Probe HERE
If you need a way to store your touch probe, I 3D print a touch probe holder.  You can find it on my Etsy shop, benmyerswoodshop or click the link below to purchase one!
Touch Probe Holder

Click HERE to go to the official Carbide 3D website for installation instructions.

1 Comment

Carbide Create Shapeoko Basics - Part 4: Multiple Toolpaths And V Bit Video

3/4/2019

2 Comments

 
Part 4 of the series, I used some advanced features to design a wooden sign.  I walk you through how to cut out multiple tool paths with endmills and v bits.  Also show how to use the probe with a v bit.  In this one we actually cut the sign on the CNC.
​
I created this video series aimed at the true beginner to hobby CNC's.  Although Carbide Create is made for the Shapeoko, it can be used for any CNC because it just generates G-Code.
Please leave any info i left out that you want to know about in the comments below.  I'll be out with more videos soon.

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TOOLS / MATERIALS
■ Carbide 3D Shapeoko 3 XXL : http://bit.ly/shapeoko
■ Asus Rog Laptop : https://amzn.to/2R9uhvB
■ 90 Degree V Bit : https://amzn.to/2XGzMp8
■  1/8 Downcut Bit : https://amzn.to/2EHWlS3
■ Suck It Dust Boot and Oops Clamps : http://bit.ly/suckitdustboot
■ Touch Probe : http://bit.ly/touchprobe
■ J Tech Laser : http://bit.ly/jtechlaser (use code 'myers' for 10% off)
■ Fein Turbo 1 Vac : https://amzn.to/2PzrZEs
■ Remote Keyboard : https://amzn.to/2QNvLi9
2 Comments

Remotly View Your CNC With This Camera And WiFi Outlet

2/25/2019

2 Comments

 
When I have a long carve on my CNC (Onefinity, Shapeoko, Xcarve or other brand) or 3D Printer, I like to remotely monitor it to make sure everything is going smoothly.  I'd like to say, " NEVER LET YOUR CNC RUN WITHOUT YOU THERE!", but lets be real.  We've all done it.
What i do is have this camera set up so I can periodically check in and make sure everything is cutting fine.  In the event of a catastrophic error, I pair the camera with a wifi outlet.  I have my CNC and Router plugged in to the wifi outlet and can shut if off anywhere I have internet or cell reception.
​Click the two links on the right to buy the same products I use.  It's a small price to pay for piece of mind.
2 Comments

Create A Fence For Your CNC Wasteboard. (File And How To Video Included!)

1/26/2019

38 Comments

 
When you want a consistant X and Y zero point the best way to do that on the CNC is by using a fence.  I've designed a fence to fit into my custom wasteboard.  Now you can get consistent clamping and zeroing with large or small pieces.

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38 Comments

How To Control Your CNC With A Wireless Remote

1/23/2019

6 Comments

 
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Ever wanted to control your CNC when your not in front of your computer.  Here's one simple solution that's less than $20 and takes zero programming knowledge.

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6 Comments

How To Convert .c2d (Carbide Create) Files To .svg

1/17/2019

7 Comments

 
Picture
I usually design all my things in Vetric.  Sometimes, I design in Carbide Create.  While it is fantastic FREE software that pairs with the Carbide 3D Shapeoko and Nomad, it does have it's limitations.  One of these is the inability to export .svg files for use in other CNC cad programs.  So far, i've found 3 ways of doing it.  None of them are perfect, but it's better than not being able to do it at all.
​
Option 1. Convert C2D To SVG : An amazing member of the unofficial Shapeoko and Nomad Facebook group created this simple program wrapped in an .html that works in a web browser.  It's worked well for simple projects for me but it technically does not support curves. Click HERE to download

Option 2. Cutrocket.com : This is a website built by Carbide 3D as a way to share projects and download completed projects for free.  If you upload the .c2d file to 
cutrocket.com it will make a .svg preview and you can download it in your web browser (if it supports .svg file types)

Option 3. G Code Ripper : This is a free program.  You'd have to create your .nc G-code file with Carbide Create, then open it up with G-Code Ripper and export it to .dxf. Then you should be able to open the .dxf with a compatible CAD application.

 
7 Comments

How To Clamp Material To Your Wasteboard.  (Including The New L Shaped Clamp Bracket File)

1/16/2019

14 Comments

 
I decided to create another clamping option to assist in holding down material.  I came up with these L shaped brackets.  One has 5 holes that will directly fit my threaded wasteboard file, and the other has slots so you can adjust the fit anyway you'd need to according to what the material needs (I'm imagining its good for round stock).   This will work on any branded CNC, but are built specifically for my wasteboard and the Shapeoko 3.  Carbide Create is required to open the file, but it will create g code for use on any g code sender (i.e. UGS, Carbide Motion, Easel)

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14 Comments

Carbide Create Shapeoko Basics - Part 3: Advanced Design - Now On Youtube

1/11/2019

0 Comments

 
Part 3 of the series, I used some advanced features to design a wooden sign. I go over using multiple bits and toolpaths, importing vectors, offset vectors, v carving, aligning vectors, along with many others. In Part 4, I cut out the sign using the g-code created from this file. I created this video series aimed at the true beginner to hobby CNC's. Although Carbide Create is made for the Shapeoko, it can be used for any CNC because it just generates G-Code. Please leave any info i left out that you want to know about in the comments below. I'll be out with more videos soon.

Here's the file I created so you can check it out for yourself : Cowart.c2d (requires carbide create to open)

Carbide 3D Shapeoko 3 XXL : http://bit.ly/shapeoko 
Asus Rog Laptop :
https://amzn.to/2R9uhvB
Suck It Dust Boot: http://bit.ly/suckitdustboot
Touch Probe :
http://bit.ly/touchprobe
J Tech Laser :
http://bit.ly/jtechlaser (use code myers for 10% off)
0 Comments

CNC Feeds And Speeds.  A Starting Point.

12/29/2018

2 Comments

 
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Feeds and speeds.  The constant question that will never die.  It's hard to answer this in a simple blog post.  Don't take this as the end all, be all, but more of a starting or reference point.
There's a whole lot of math that goes into finding the perfect feed and speeds.  I'm not a mathmatician, but there are plenty of websites that will go into much more detail than I ever could, however the basic formula is chipload x cutting diameter x number of flutes x spindle speed = feed rate.
The key to remember is that you want to make chips, not dust.  Cutting will generate heat.  You want to create as little heat as you can while going as fast as you can.  It's a dance between not going so fast that you create a bit that gets so hot you cannot touch it.  Larger chips pull away more heat, which means its easier on the tool and prolongs the life of the bit.  If the bit is too hot to the touch, increase the feedrate or lower the speed dial on the router.
The best way to dial in your settings is with trial and error.
​
Here's what I run my bits at currently in wood like mdf, pine, and birch plywood: (click to purchase)
​
For depth of cut (DOC) i typically do the diameter of the endmill per pass (1/4 endmill will go .25 depth per pass) in wood.

Endmills:
1/16 endmill : 25ipm, 15 plunge, 3 on Dewalt dial.
1/8 endmill: 50ipm, 20 plunge, 3 on Dewalt dial.
​1/4 endmill:  100ipm, 30 plunge, 3 on Dewalt dial.
1/2 endmill: 100ipm, 30 plunge, 3 on Dewalt dial.

Compression:
1/8 compression: 50ipm, 20 plunge, 1/4 depth per pass, 3 on Dewalt dial.

V-Bits:
30 degree: 40ipm, 10 plunge, 3 on Dewalt dial
60 degree: 100ipm, 30 plunge, 3 on Dewalt dial.
90 degree: 100ipm, 30 plunge, 3 on Dewalt dial.

Spoil Board :
1 1/2 Spoil board bit: 150ipm, 5 plunge, 1mm depth per pass, 1 on Dewalt dial.

On the left, a chart designed by Carbide 3D with recommended settings on different materials.  Here is another excel chart with reference feeds and speeds.
I hope this has been helpful!  Happy cutting!
​-Ben
2 Comments

How To Flatten Your Wasteboard (And Why It's So Important)

12/27/2018

30 Comments

 
So you just installed a new wasteboard or you need to flatten your current one because its carved into way to much.  In this blog post I'll walk you through just how to do it.
When you first install your new wasteboard its important to flatten it.  While the board my be visually flat, it will probably not be flat relative to the router.  This is important because it will be different heights across the wasteboard.  What could be 1 inch away from the router on the left side of the board could be 1 1/4 inches different on the right side.  This is especially important when engraving or v carving fine details when the depth of cut is only 1/4 or less.  It would end up cutting on one side and completely miss the board on the right.  There are a few factors as to why it wont be perfectly flat to the router.  The wasteboard thickness could be inconsistent from the factory, the machine could not be square, or you could have some sag in the span of the wasteboard.

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30 Comments
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