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How To Flatten Your Wasteboard (And Why It's So Important)

12/27/2018

30 Comments

 
So you just installed a new wasteboard or you need to flatten your current one because its carved into way to much.  In this blog post I'll walk you through just how to do it.
When you first install your new wasteboard its important to flatten it.  While the board my be visually flat, it will probably not be flat relative to the router.  This is important because it will be different heights across the wasteboard.  What could be 1 inch away from the router on the left side of the board could be 1 1/4 inches different on the right side.  This is especially important when engraving or v carving fine details when the depth of cut is only 1/4 or less.  It would end up cutting on one side and completely miss the board on the right.  There are a few factors as to why it wont be perfectly flat to the router.  The wasteboard thickness could be inconsistent from the factory, the machine could not be square, or you could have some sag in the span of the wasteboard.
To correct this we use a large, flat endmill and run a large pocket toolpath across the entire surface of the wasteboard.  This will ensure the wasteboard is consistently flat and equal distance from the router across the entire surface.  That means we will get consistent cuts every time.
First we need to make sure our wasteboard is firmly attached to the machine.  Next, we need a large endmill to do the flattening.  This article and file is written for this specific endmill, Amana Tool RC-2248 Mini Spoilboard Bit. (click here to purchase).  It is possible to use your own bit, but you'll have to edit the file and settings to adjust for it.

Myers Woodshop Spoil Board Flattening File (right click, save as)
OR
Consider purchasing the file from my Etsy site.  It helps me support what I do so I can create more free content.
Myers Woodshop Spoil Board Flattening Etsy File (Help Support Me)
(remember, this is programmed for the above mentioned flattening bit)
​
This file is also written for the XXL sized Shapeoko, but it's really easy to change the size down to whatever size your machine is.  I attached pictures above with all the preprogrammed numbers so you'll have a constant reference point.  Its important to fine the center of your wasteboard.  Originally, I thought that the rapid position labelled 'center' would be the center of my wasteboard, i was wrong.  The easiest way to find center is to draw two lines from edge to edge creating and X across the board.  The middle of the X will be the center point.  You'll move the router and zero X and Y off of the center of the X you drew.  Next, you'll lower the flattening bit until you just barely touch the wasteboard.  Since the file will cut 1mm depth, one pass only, its not incredibly important to be exact with this measurement.  Once done, Zero the Z. 
You're ready to run the file.  It will start in the middle and make squares finally reaching the outside.  I have it set for 100ipm.  It could easily go faster, as mdf is super soft and the recommended bit is very large and high quality.  For this sized bit, set the Dewalt spindle speed dial to 1. (the larger the bit, the slower the speed.)  I do not own the Makita version, but I imagine dial setting 1 would be optimal on that as well.  It should take 5 or so minutes to complete as it's only doing one pass.
It's EXTREMELY important to protect your lungs when cutting MDF.  Its dust is extremely fine the eye may not even see them and it's very harmful to your lungs.  Always run dust collection (I highly recommend Suck It Dust Boot) along with a quality vacuum (I use the Fein Turbo 1).  Additionally, a face mask (RZ Mask) and shop air filter (Wen Air Filtration Unit) (A YouTube video I did about it) when cutting MDF.  Don't mess around.
Since I programmed it to only do 1 mm depth per run, it may be necessary to run it a few times.  You'll need to rezero the Z each time, but not the X and Y.  Be very careful not to go too low as it will run across the front of the machine (over hang) and if ran too low it will cut into the metal frame on the front of the machine.  Also, make sure any screws holding the wateboard to the machine are sunk lower than the cutting depth.  Finally, if you have a J-Tech Laser, you'll want to remove the mount.  Since your running the machine to its maximum distance, it may hit or get stuck on the rails/frame.
I hope this helps you flatten your wasteboard and get more quality cuts out of your machine!
Happy cutting!
-Ben
30 Comments
Jeff
1/18/2019 06:32:18 pm

Ben,

I purchased the wasteboard flattening file as i used your making a wasteboard file as well. During the process the bit is leaving a very slight edge each time it passes where it previously cut. I do have my own bit which is 1" Diameter, 1/2" Height and flute is 2 and I did make the changes in carbide create. The step over I am using is slightly less than half the bit width. I am not sure why it's not cutting completely flush. I did one pass at the .04 inches that you had set and the second pass I used .02 however it's the same result. I am assuming its the bit I am using? Thank you for any input you may be able to add.

Reply
Jeff
1/18/2019 07:32:47 pm

It may help if I square my spindle because I just set this up and probably should have done that first. Researching I think this is the issue as my bit is perfectly square.

Reply
Ben Myers
1/19/2019 07:21:28 am

Jeff,
Your issue is called Tramming. Look up Winston Moy on youtube. He did an excellent video on it. Your router is tilted at an angle. You could decrease the stepover to help combat this...something like 25% is what I would try.
Ben

Dan C
2/21/2019 05:39:18 pm

I had a similar issue and found a camber but loose on a carriage. Once I tightened it up and checked the other it ran flat and true.

Reply
Jeff
1/19/2019 02:51:43 pm

Thank you Ben. As you can tell I am a complete newcomer to the CNC. I did find Winston’s video and it definitely is the problem. I fine tuned the machine and took care of minor issues and now I will fix the y-axis tilt per Winston’s video. Thank you for the quick reply and for the files. I purchased both from your shop and tagged you in the making of the spoilboard.

Thanks again,

Jeff

Reply
Ben Myers
1/19/2019 05:46:48 pm

Jeff,
Thanks! I saw that, looking really good! Keep tagging me so i can watch you progress.
Confession....I really need to tram my machine too :P

Reply
Dan C
2/17/2019 07:58:06 pm

What speed do you run your surfacing bit (feed rate)?

Reply
Ben Myers
2/18/2019 06:45:27 pm

at least 100ipm

Reply
Brad
2/18/2019 03:04:44 pm

Is there any reason to not start the flattening file in the bottom left? Or, should it be done in the center?

Reply
Dan C
2/18/2019 03:14:55 pm

I updated the file to start at bottom left. If I had tried center, I would have drawn an line from opposite corners to determine center which would have been off center actually. The carriage, when pushed back all the way back is offset by the z axis carriage and router which is ~6" closer to the front (or approx 16" from the front edge of the waste board should be center and 17"-32" should be the back half of the board.). I'm newbie enough to have messed that up the first go around.

Reply
Ben Myers
2/18/2019 06:46:30 pm

its more fool proof for the hundreds of people following my directions. i worry some may do it wrong if they messed with the front and hitting the metal plate. you can do it bottom left easy.

Reply
DanielHeth link
2/21/2019 04:58:42 pm

Minor notice for those working with the SO3XXL and using the Whiteside 6210 bit to flatten your wasteboard... Be sure you're board is just shy of 32 inches in the Y direction. my board is maybe a 32 and 1/16 inches and i've got a tiny lip on the back end of the wasteboard. Not a big deal, but the 6210 bit is a bit to skinny to hit that 1/16.

Reply
Carissa Kartchner
5/2/2019 01:38:25 am

Daniel did you use that bit? I just used mine (Whiteside 6210) and i'm not sure i added the bit properly to the library on carbide create. How did you add it? I am definitely new to all of this. I ran the program but it took 2.5 hours and had tons of ridges in it so i definitely did something wrong.

Reply
ben myers
5/4/2019 09:38:56 am

make sure your IPM is 100. if it took that long it was too slow. Ridges mean it's not trammed. Look up winston moy on youtube to see how to tram the machine.

Tony Konicek
10/18/2020 06:39:58 pm

Carissa,
I also just bought the Whiteside 6210 and was wondering what settings you used when setting it up in Carbide Create? I want to start flattening my wasteboard but also start flattening some nicer wood that will become projects.
Thanks! Please let me know if you'd like me to email you my contact information.

Geni Hammons link
6/13/2019 10:27:28 pm

Total newbie, after right click save file as, where do I put it ? In a file in the shapeoko application file somewhere? I've created a sign and toolpaths and got it right but i can't figure out how to flatten the additional spoilboard i attached not to mess up the sub base one. Am i overthinking this? Help please
I have new machine xxl with updated firmware ,4.1 i think, whatever up to date 6/13/19

Reply
John McGovern
8/13/2019 06:42:30 pm

Should I start in the middle of the waste board on a custom machine too. I'm running a 1.25 surfacing bit in my spindle. What spindle speed and ipm should I use with that bit?

Reply
Ben myers
8/13/2019 09:56:28 pm

100 ipm, lowest spindle speed

Reply
John McGovern
8/14/2019 02:17:53 am

My spindle goes from 0 to 24000. So to say the lowest speed is really not helping. This is not a router it's a true spindle. Thanks for the help.

Shon
3/2/2021 07:16:45 pm

Is IPM the same as in/min in the "add tool" setting in the tool library?

thanks,
shon

ben myers
8/15/2019 11:05:35 pm

My bad, thought you had a router. I'm around 12-16k rpm

Reply
Mags
9/14/2019 06:06:18 pm

Hi Ben thanks for all the great things you have done for the community. I recently set up my xxl and while making the new spoil board I could see that it is out by quite a bit. Some of the washer holes barely broke the surface. My question is should I try to flatten out the original shapeoko spoil board or just plunge the washer holes deeper and then flatten the new one I was making.

Thanks

Reply
ben myers
1/19/2020 03:40:31 pm

do NOT flatten the original wasteboard! just finish off the holes like I did in the video.

Reply
Mindy Jollie link
10/7/2019 01:53:05 pm

That's good to know that you should protect your lungs when using custom machine spindles in CNC cutting. My friend is really into this kind of work. I'll have to make sure he reads this article.

Reply
CC
3/21/2020 07:10:09 pm

Hi. I know it says it's super easy to change machine sizes, but I'm not figuring it out. I can size the vector down and make tiny sqaures but then it says surfacing will take 45 mins. Any ideas?

Reply
Alex T
5/27/2020 03:37:28 pm

Hi Ben - I just got my carbide XXL CNC. Really excited!!! I was wondering if you could tell me what the proper tool setting for this bit would be?

Please see link below:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZP5RXRP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks so much for your help!!
Alex

Reply
Carleigh
11/18/2020 07:10:10 pm

Hi Ben,
Thank you for the file! I am excited to start cutting. I do not have the Amana tool you listed for the flatting file. I have a 1" Flattening Router Bit from Lee Valley (18J2516) (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/110463-flattening-router-bits). Do I need to alter the file or just input my new tool? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Reply
Bryan
1/2/2021 01:43:59 pm

Ben,
Happy New Year. I just purchased your XXL waste board flattening file, and as I look at the tool path simulation, it appears that it will only flatten the outside perimeter and not the entire waste board. I am using the max depth of .04 with the Amana #45525 1" flattening bit. Can you help me navigate what I'm doing wrong?? Thank you in advance.

Reply
Joe
1/6/2021 04:47:35 pm

Same here. Just does the Outside Perimeter

Reply
Todd
1/19/2021 07:53:40 am

If you select pocket on the tool path, it should work correctly.




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