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I'm happy to say I have the Onefinity CNC in my shop!  Made by the people behind Suck It dust boot, it's an all axis ball screw machine in a modular design that only took me less than 15 minutes to breakdown in my shop and move, set up and cut in my friends shop.  Remember when you put together the Carbide 3D Shapeoko and it took a full day...or worse, the Inventables X-Carve and it took 5 FULL DAYS!  From unboxing to cutting you'll be done in less than an hour (it took me 15 minutes).  Moving the other machines takes two people.  You can move and set up this one by yourself.  The beauty of this machine is when you want to move it, you can move one rail at a time.  You don't need a truck or large suv to move the Onefinity.  I took it over to my friends shop in my wifes car.
I'm a huge tech nerd so anytime you put wifi in something I'm all in.  The controller is something special.  It's basically a computer inside.  Gone are the days where I have to hook up a usb cord from my computer to the controller on my cnc machine and tie it up until the piece is finish, or worry that my computer or usb might go to sleep in the middle of the cut and I lose hours of work. Also, who want's to take their expensive laptop in the shop to get dusty or drop it? Once you have your design done and you save the gcode file, you simply put it on a usb stick or log into the controller via your network (if you choose to do this, wifi/internet is NOT a requirement for it to run) and transfer the file.  Simply zero your work piece via the touch screen and click start.  If you've used cncjs or ugs you'll love the feature that shows the simulation of tool paths while it's cutting.  The Onefinity has that feature built in as well.  You can monitor your cut and it's movements while it's cutting.  That's really handy when you're trying to avoid cutting into your clamps.
The awesome part of optionally connecting it to your network is the ability to use your phone (or tablet) to control the machine!  I always have my phone on me and love the fact I can control it from wherever I am.  If you hook up a usb webcam (any of the shelf usb webcam will work) a screen will show on the controller page of the camera's view.  You can watch your machine cut directly from the screen!  This is perfect for those long jobs when you want to head back in the house to catch an episode of Tiger King on Netflix but still want to monitor your cnc for any 'mishaps' that may happen.  You basically created your own cnc baby monitor.
The controller also has hook ups for VFD (for when you want to graduate from a trim router to a spindle) built right in.  I have a usb gamepad controller hooked into mine for when I want to jog the machine while not directly in front of a screen.  Almost too many options for jogging and control.
There's a larger z height than I'm used to on this machine which allows me to cut thicker stock.  And if I raise up the rails I can put as thick of a stock as I'd like underneath.  I could even potentially place it on top of a completed table and carve in a design.  That's a huge up sell if your created custom furniture.
The Linear bearings are sealed so there's no need to worry about dust entering them.  I constantly had to clean my v wheels and the rails that they road on to keep them smooth before.  Ever have a belt snap in the middle of a paid job or a rubber v wheel break in half?  You either have to start all over or wait to get a new belt or v wheel from amazon.  With ball screws that problem goes away. As for maintenance, after a certain amount of hours on the machine, simply apply oil in the ball screw hole and that's it.  I've seen way to many complain about making my wasteboard and it not drilling the holes all the way through.  99% of the time the problem was the stepper motors skipping steps because the belt was loose.
Belt stretch is real.  When you get your new machine or new belt you account and adjust for the belt.  After time rubber will loose its elasticity and stretch.  This will cause your circle to come out ovals.  Ball screws eliminate that problem too.
Since the controller has built in cam, you'll just need to provide your own CAD program that can create files.  I've tried Carbide Create, Easel, Fusion 360, Meshcam, Solidworks and Vetric Aspire (Vetric is my go to) so far.  All work just fine. I intend to try out Carveco soon.  It's highly likely that those will cover 90% of the users out there.  Basically, If your CAD program creates gcode, you'll more than likely be able to run it one the Onefinity.
The Onefinity uses the proven nema 23 motors just like the xcarve and shapeoko 3 does.
Rapid movements are increased up to 700 inches/minute on x and y and 400 on the z.  Bottom line, it's pretty fast for a hobby CNC.  Faster than what I'm used to.
I've been using the machine for a couple of months now and I've had zero issues thus far with rigidity.  The rails have been doing a great job keeping things rigid.  I'm cutting at faster IPM's than I have thus far.  I could basically use the rails as a pull up bar and there wouldn't be flex.
Overall, I think the Onefinity is a great addition to the hobby / desktop cnc scene.  It offers the higher priced machine features that more expensive machines carry at an affordable price (which I EXPECT to be priced in the same ball park with xcarve and shapeoko. We will find out for certain in May 2020).
Check out the videos below to see more of the Onefinity in action.  Hit me up with any questions or comments.
Happy Cutting,
-Ben
​
Find Onefinity at their website www.onefinitycnc.com

Also, follow them on social media:

Below are the specifications of the machine:

The following are some YouTube Videos of the Onefinity CNC machine.

Add this to the start gcode under machine settings for the Artillery Sidewinder X1 in Cura slicer:

; Custom Start G-code
G28 ; Home all axes
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X10 Y.5 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X100 Y.5 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X100 Y.2 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X10 Y.2 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed and let out nozzle pressure
G1 X0 Y15 Z0.4; Move back to heat bed, sticking blob of filament down before travel move to free nozzle
; End of custom start GCode
​

When the Covid-19 Virus locks down the world you hang out with your best friends.  Since we can't be around other people, there's no guest host this time.  Ben, Brian, And Coty discuss how the virus and its extraordinary circumstances affect their businesses.  Ben's wife Molly also decided to start a book blog.  https://www.leggingsandliterature.com/ Brian cannot teach remotely because he has no internet on his phone or at home. Be safe, Stay Happy, Hope. - The Build Guild
https://www.thebuildguildpodcast.com

You guys know me for my work with the Shapeoko 3.  It's been a good machine but with some caveats.  Belt stretch and breaking, Z movement loosing steps, very heavy to move by yourself, and needing a computer to be constantly tethered to use it.
In comes the Onefinity.  Created by the people who make the Suck It dust boot, this machines solves all the major faults of the Shapeoko and Xcarve.  X, Y, and Z Axis use ball screws standard.  Linear Bearings on all axis, no belts anywhere to be found.  The controller is so powerful that it runs its own built in software so no computer needs to be connected to it to send or run files.  Finally, no computer is needed in the dusty shop.
I'm one of the first 'influencers' to receive this beast so make sure to be following me on Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube.  I'll be sure to post lots of videos about the machine and its capabilities.  Check out their announcement video below.
You can find Onefinity CNC at www.onefinitycnc.com.  Make sure to follow them on Instgram and Facebook as well @onefinitycnc.  
Can't wait to show you what it's all about!
Happy Cutting!
-Ben

With all the crazyiness going on in the world during the corona virus, covid-19, I love the fact that people are hiding bears around their homes for children to 'hunt' for during walks and bike rides.  I designed a very simple file that can be used on a cnc, laser cutter, 3d printer, vinyl cutter or just a regular everyday home printer that you can print out on paper for kids to color.
Please feel free to use these files as you'd like.  Please tag me, email me, or leave a comment on the socials so I can see what you do with the, @myerswoodshop.
We're in this together!  Let's bring a smile to the faces of children.
​-Ben

*This is a ZIP file.  You will need to 'unzip' the file to access the files*

​Ben (Myers Woodshop) and Coty (Arganic Woodwork), two makers from central Arkansas, discuss their recent trip to Workbenchcon 2020, the conference for makers and content creators. They guys break it down by price, food, hotel, sponsorship's, vendors, classes, and meet ups.  Ben gives his thoughts as a content creator and Coty as a full time production shop. Should you attend Workbenchcon next year?  Listen as the guys discuss their thoughts and find out if you'll see them next year or not.    After, we talk to Brian (Fiery Squirrel Art) about his thoughts on if he missed out or he goes in the future.
Also, Ben's wife Molly pulls an epic prank on him during the trip and also starts a book blog at https://www.leggingsandliterature.com/

I LOVE the video game Astroneer.  Ever since i found this little obscure game on Game Preview via XBOX in prealpha state I've been a fan.  I'm not even sure how I found it, but I'm glad I did.  With each update I dive back in always in wonder by what new things there is to do.  A game where I'm not shooting someone?!  How can it be?!
I'm also fortunate to have a good friend who likes it as much as I do.  The unfortunate thing is that he live 3500 miles from me in Alaska.  We met at college while playing lacrosse.  This game is what keeps us close 8 years later.  XBOX chat is our version of talking on the phone.

I designed the box from scratch.  Then used my 60w laser to cut it out.  I then bought some foam from hobby lobby and tried cutting it out on the laser cutter.  I went to slow and caught it on fire!  I tried some floor tile mats from harbor freight.  These worked great.  Only problem I ran into with them is that they aren't as thick.  I ended up doing 3 layers on the bottom and one layer on the top with the cut outs of the figurine.
The words around the lid are the planets and type, the gases, and the elements in the game.  They are only 2mm in height so they are very tiny.  I decided to do some of the larger element symbols around the outside of the box.  FosterScotch is my friends gamertag.
I liked the wanderers update picture because of the artwork and the good contrast in it.  That makes for a pretty decent lasering using jarvis etching on the laser.  I used the model that Spencer created.  It's great Spencer!  Now, can you model the other suits?!  (Here's a link to his file)  I printed it out .1 on the Prusa SLA resin 3D printer, the SL1.  It came out great!  This was my first time painting anything printed.  I got some Testors model paint and their cheap paint brushes.  I learned the hard way that vigorously mixing the paint is a must.  If you look at the red and the blue you can see they kind of bleed.  It was pretty watery consistency.  Then I realized I needed to shake the fire out of the bottles before painting.  The other colors turned out much better.  I still hate painting.
The magnets are the coolest part of this figure.  It's just like how it all snaps together in the game.  They are REALLY tiny, but oh so satisfying.
At the bottom of this post I attached a video of the box closed and opening the box, taking out the Astro man and assembling them together. 
I think it turned out really cool!  Hopefully it makes it to Alaska in one piece!  Let me know what you think in the comments!
Happy Making!
Ben

Did I Waste $2400 on a 60W Laser Cutter from China?
 
              I did it. I took the leap and bought a 60w Orion Motor Tech Black and Yellow laser engraver/cutter on amazon!
https://omtechlaser.com/​
 
Overall, I'm very impressed with this laser.  The sweet spot for laser cutting and laser engraving is 60-80 watts.   Higher watts and the engraving will not be as good because the laser is just too powerful.  We're able to cut up to 1/2 material depending on the density.  1/4 material is easy to cut in one pass.  We primarily use 1/4 birch plywood for our uses.  Since this laser is a C02 laser, it will not cut ANY metal.  You'd need a fiber laser for that, however it will mark on metal using thermal marking spray.  It will cut cork, soft and hard wood, acrylic, cardboard, and paper.  It will mark on glass, slate, stone, granite, and marble.  Be careful you do not cut certain types of plastics as the release toxic gases and will kill you if inhaled.

Included with the laser:

• Two six-inch rubber ventilation ducts with hose clamps
•  Water reservoir for cooling
• Water tubes
• Water pump
• Air pump
• Air blower
• Two activation keys
• Tool for opening all the doors and hatches
• Tool for measuring the focal distance of the laser from the cutting surface.

 
Control Panel

• Laser Switch
• Control Switch
• Ethernet Port
• Two USB ports (1 PC and 1 USB Disc)

 
Bottom Hatch - “The Guts”:

• Laser Tube Power Supply
• Power for rest of the electronics
• 110/220V switch (110 for America)
• 2 Controllers w/ heat sync
• Controller with USB and ethernet ports

 
Top Hatch:

• Controller Access – Allows access to the controller if you want/need to switch out the Ruida RD644S Controller

 
Power Plate (Back Bottom Left Corner):

• 110v power supply
• Optional: Grounding Wire, Water and Air Pump power supply

 
Air/Water Hookups (Back Bottom Right Corner):

• Water Inlet
• Water Outlet
• Air Inlet

 
Front and Back Bottom Hatches:

• Belt

 
Top Back Hatch:

• LASER TUBE
• Water cooling tubes
• Adjustable Mirrors for laser

 
Pass Through Ports:

• Door on front and back of cutting surface to fit larger pieces of material on the cutting surface

 
Cutting Area:

• Laser Head
• Metal honeycomb shaped bed
• More adjustable mirrors for the laser
• Air Assist – Blows air on the material where the laser is cutting to prevent fires
• Rails that allow the laser to move along the top of the bed (don’t touch these, they’re very greasy!)
• Knob for raising/lowering the bed and adjusting cut height

 
What’s in the mysterious zipper package?

• Ethernet cable
• Power cord (standard computer power cord)
• USB to USB cord
• CD with files/drivers
• White electrical tape
• Alan key set
• Silicone adhesive sealant
• Instruction Manual with instructions, tips and tricks (somewhat broken English)

 
Centrifugal Blower:

• Blows fumes from laser through ducts and out

 
 
Some things that didn’t come with the laser:

• S&A 5200 Chiller
• 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan (replacing the loud blower that came with the laser)
• Lightburn laser cutter software

 
Summary: This thing is awesome! So far, I’ve used it in making signs, home décor, 3D wooden models and so much more. I can cut through up to about 1/2” of wood depending on density and have started experimenting with etching on metal as well (you will need a spray to do so like THIS called Ceramark or Thermark ). Overall, this laser is a great buy, a great tool and all around fun to play with.